by Yap WaiChing on 29 May 2026
Housekeeping notes from Ulu Baram.
We moved fast
Had it our way or nothing at all
Didn’t stick to the rivers and the lakes that we’re used to
We went chasing waterfalls
~
Eleventh trip, a dozen years
Four, met in December
for the love of walking together once a year,
We shared paths deep in Ulu Baram,
guided by masters who read the river
the way some people read palms.
Nourished by mistresses
whose labour carried the kind of care that balms.
~



Twelve years ago, four people casually decided to hike, and it became annual pilgrimages into nature. Somehow, through job changes, relocations, heartbreaks, a pandemic, and the slow administrative creep of adulting, Joanne, Michelle, Man Yong and I kept meeting again at every Q4 of the Year – because friendship (and all relationships) survives through repeated commitment.
In December 2025, we followed an incredible Passage to Ulu Baram through a highly coveted Mowgli Venture nature tour, and eventually to Jevinda Village Stay of Long San Village – a place that felt less like an accommodation and more like a philosophy of how to live with what you intend to keep loving for a long time.
The journey in was a punishing but interesting five hours from Miri town, with the final stretch tearing across logging roads where our 4WD shook every thought loose from the body. Sylvester, our driver and eventual master of our homestay, described it as a “massage chair ride”, which sounded misleading until we realised it captured the ferocity of the experience perfectly. He drove as someone fully initiated by the land. Along the way he pointed out various Rumah Panjangs, naming mountains in the distance, recalling lores attached to bridges and bends in the roads.

Somewhere between that endurance test disguised as transit and me naively asking whether regular cars could survive the route, he replied:
“Can (dramatic pause). If you want to spoil your car.”
I side-eyed him with a mock defeated sigh and THAT, set the tone of the sense of humour we were served for the next 4D3N – as dry as the dust we would later eat from riding on the back of his truck.
Yet for all the natural grandeur of Ulu Baram ancient enough to humble your self-importance, it was the home that welcomed us back daily that truly enamoured me. Jevinda Village Stay is run by people who had lived with that land all their lives, and they showed us how intimacy with a place comes from unfaltering involvement.



The men – stewarded by Sylvester – guided us through the forest like readers of an old language. The landscapes to them are not scenic backdrops but things to negotiate seriously with. Linda led the women in carrying another kind of mastery entirely – the labour of receiving people and the art of folding strangers into the pulse of the house without making hospitality feel transactional.


We romanticise existing in close communion with nature as though proximity itself performs the work of healing, but in Ulu Baram we were invited to meet halfway into the practical lives of the folks. Meals followed seasons and availability. Weather read without apps. Things were repaired before being replaced. Knowledge came not from optimisation, but long familiarity with the land.
Over those few days, I began noticing how love echoed through the place in different dialects.

WORDS OF AFFIRMATION rang differently here, heard first in the warm welcomes at the doorway painted with Kalong motifs. They manifested in the laughter across the spacious kitchen – a signal of joy and safety – that encouraged me to linger and to blend in with the rhythm of their work. Curiosity was rewarded instead of tolerated. After I spent enough time hovering around meal-preps like an overenthusiastic goblin, they eventually began summoning me whenever something interesting was happening. One morning we joined the women packing rice into banana leaves – part of our lunch at the waterfall later – while they entertained us with impressive patience. I swear I caught Linda’s mum cutely stifled giggles at our odd fascination to their ordinary task.


ACTS OF SERVICE appeared mid-hike when Joanne’s shoe decided it no longer believed in structural integrity. At U’ong Bilong Waterfall, the guides came to the rescue by engineering a knot-work intricate enough to make scouts blush and question the legitimacy of their badges. She completed the rest of the hike that day with zero footwear issues. Back at Jevinda, shoes were offered without hesitation so she wouldn’t need to haphazardly replace it. (IMPORTANT! : ALWAYS check and test your gears before any excursions! ; ESPECIALLY if you only go annually)
The same attentiveness extended from the kitchen. Man Yong, who keeps a strict vegetarian diet, never once had to awkwardly ‘make do’. Separate dishes were made for her, at the conviction that feeding someone properly is a form of respect.
Later, exhaustion caught up with me so completely that I passed out waiting for our laundry cycle to finish (yes, they offer the use of washers!) I woke up to find my friends had already hung my clothes to dry. Nobody announced the gesture, and that was precisely why it mattered.




GIFTS, too, are rich in Ulu Baram, though rarely anything that could fit into a luggage. From the ancient canopies weaving shade across the trails while sunlight broke through in narrow gold seams, to roaring waterfalls offering themselves as ironic respite to the chaotic city life we temporarily left behind. (on that note, do properly seal your electronics. There’s a lot of river wading, and among us, the river-tax has claimed Michelle’s phone and my camera)
Offerings were also present in the freshly caught river fish that still tasted of the currents, in the foraged greens fragrant with wilderness, in the stories whispered from unfathomable depth, in the mythical hornbill presenting a glimpse to its wingspan.
The saying goes ‘Every Day is a Gift’ – and at Jevinda Village Stay, there is a particular wealth in the dew each morning, that asks nothing from you except your unhurried participation of the day.


QUALITY TIME operated differently there because Ulu Baram dismantles your city habits. The place has a way of slowing you down amidst adventures around epic silk veils. The rivers run with the patience of things that have prevailed long before we arrived. We sat together without converting the moment into productivity, lengthening into conversations without urgency, or simply just nursing a cuppa in silence. A couple of boys in our group even made naps into achievements. Wherever waterfall roars, they snore!
Another side effect was that it encouraged quality bonding. No pressure whatsoever to participate, but do linger at Burak Night, courtesy of Linda, Sylvester, and some dangerously persuasive homemade rice wine. It is an exercise of unguarding, where love stories surfaced and hidden talents emerged. Some entertaining videos may or may not have existed but in an act of collective mercy, they shall never see daylight.
You have to come experience it to rate its notoriety yourself!





Last but not least, PHYSICAL TOUCH was alive in the son offering his mother a steady hand down a steep descent before turning back to help everyone else. The village dog weaving affectionately around our legs during the village tour, tail wagging earnestly. Even the 4WD rides became absurdly fun – all of us getting violently tossed against one another, briefly rearranging our internal organs over gnarly terrains, while Sylvester and other drivers descended hills enthusiastically in free gear!
And then there was the touch of the land itself. The blessing of cold river water against sweaty skin, while the wind teased through damp clothes. Soft earth that holds your steps, vegetation that tickles to remind you to stay on path. Ulu Baram does not let you detach from your surroundings. It insists on contact.


We can’t separate fondness for the place from fondness for the people who keep it alive. Jevinda Village Stay is memorable because the house carries evidence of continual tending to the land, and to relationships. To its guests. To their traditions. To stories retold enough times to become inheritance.



Too often, we reserve tenderness for the brink – collapse, eulogies, farewells.
The folks of Jevinda encourage another possibility – love sustained while things are well. Devotion before absence threatens. People choosing each other repeatedly in ordinary hours rather than dramatically at the edge of departure. Nurture before disaster.
And this is why our yearly hikes matter. In between waterfalls, mountains, islands, and seas, sits the resolution to continue tending to the friendship while life still allow that privilege. A dozen trips around the sun later, the ritual remains at its core – TO RETURN. To say I gotchu to summit together. To weather through typhoons together. Eat at the same table. Learn the landscapes of each other anew before familiarity hardens into assumption.



The people at Jevinda Village Stay understand something many of us forget – love is housekeeping. Places like these endure because somebody keeps showing up to care for them. Relationships persevere the same way.
Maybe that is why I miss Ulu Baram already.


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